Official Monopod User's Manual
After hauling a heavy tripod rig
around for a while you may consider graduating to a monopod.
Monopods have the important features of being lightweight,
set up extremely fast, and do not draw much attention. In
fact, we found that a monopod is the best way to shoot a
panorama in a crowded area because they are so non
intrusive.
-
- The Pros and Cons of a
Monopod
- Monopods - The
Advantages
- Monopods - The
Disadvantages
- Monopod Usage Models
- The History of the Monopod and
QTVR
- Monopod first pass: A step
backward
- Monopod second pass: Two
steps forward
- Monopod Compass/Level Panhead -
Parts Is Parts
- What it is and How it
Works
- We started with the
following parts
- Build this device
yourself
- Have OutsideTheLines build
this device for you
The Pros and Cons of a
Monopod
Monopods - The
Advantages
- Monopods are quick to setup and tear down.
- Monopods are unobtrusive and do not draw the
attention a tripod tends to command.
- Monopods are allowed in places tripods are generally
restricted from, such as amusement parks.
- You can tell the security guards at any Mayan
archeological site that your monopod is really a walking
stick and not a tripod, and that you know tripods are not
allowed because they can cause irreparable damage to the
ruins.
- Monopods are lightweight and easy to carry while
traveling. This is a very important advantage when you
are hauling your many pound tripod in and around a hot
and humid rain forest, or up a many thousand foot upward
traversal of a mountain and are thinking to yourself that
you could just leave the tripod right here where you are
resting and pick it up on the way back because (a) you
really did not want to take any more panoramas, simple
stills will suffice or (b) you think you could use the
bipod approach of hand holding the camera for the
panoramas and that, again, it would be good enough. Not
that we know this from experience, this is for
illustration purposes only.
- If you use a compass based monopod panhead, it is a
simple matter of getting all of your shots to start with
a direction heading of "north".
Monopods - The
Disadvantages
- Use a tripod if you are using a camera/film/lens
setting that requires long exposures, since you may not
be able to hold the monopod steady enough to capture
sharp crisp images.
- Use a tripod if you use a video camera for your image
capture since may need to shoot a few seconds of tape for
a "still" image. If this is the case, you have taken an
exposure of a few seconds for all intents and purposes.
- As a sub example of the above, the camera may be to
heavy to accurately hold in a vertical fashion for any
length of time. As an extreme example, try to hold a
digital backed 35mm camera (one of the heavy ones) in
portrait mode, on its L-bracket, with a large side
mounted strobe, on a monopod, and take a full round of
shots. Now do a series of panoramas. You get tired, which
produces less than optimal results.
- Use a tripod if you know you can not put all of your
concentration into shooting a full panorama. With a
monopod, you need to shoot a complete panorama before
going off to do other things - it is the nature of the
beast. Since you are required to hold the monopod
upright, and keep track of the images (via guessing the
overlap, using a compass based panhead, or a standard
clickstop panhead) you are not free to relax, adjust the
environment, or scope out a scene. With a tripod, you can
simply move about more freely than a monopod allows.
- Use a tripod if you will be shooting panoramas under
water.
- It is hard to take panoramas at the poles of the
Earth or in areas surrounded by ferrous materials if you
use a compass based panhead with your monopod.
Monopod Usage Models
There are several methods of capturing a panorama that
differ from the standard tripod/panhead setup. The first and
simplest is the bipod approach. This is where you stand up
strait and level and shoot the photos by hand, faking the
overlap, nodal point, and levelness. While this method does
not produce the most favorable results, it is effective in
getting "the shot" when no other method is at hand.
The next in the list is a minor enhancement to the above
method which may be used by both a bipod (your body) or a
monopod. Go to the Embassy building on Market street in San
Francisco, find the large compass maker embedded in the
sidewalk and take your pictures with the compass marker on
the ground as an image indexing device. Be sure to calculate
the number of degrees between images that correspond to the
type of lens you will be using. For your next panorama, go
find another compass embedded in the street and repeat.
A novel twist to the above technique is to create your
own portable image indexing device. First, find a nice spot
to take your panorama and paint a 3 foot diameter circle
about your monopod. Next, take your watch (for you
youngsters out there, an analog watch is that old fashioned
kind with 2 or 3 little hands that go around at different
speeds) and place it in the middle of the circle. Next,
spray paint marks on the circle corresponding to the time at
which you need to take your pictures based on the type of
lens you are using. For example, place marks on the circle
at the 1:00, 2:00, 3:00, ...,12:00 settings, place the watch
at the center of the circle and take a picture once and hour
to get a panorama with 12 images. In this manner, you would
be taking photos not bases on the "degrees" around a circle,
but the "time" around a circle for a full panorama. To get
12 shots, take your images every 5 minutes ( or every hour
if you are slow). If you needed 20 images for a full
panorama, you would take your images every 3 minutes.
For a monopod, several other options have been thought
about. You could use a large round sheet of paper with
degree marks on its edges. Place the sheet on the ground and
point the camera in that direction, take the photo, rotate
the monopod to the next mark, and so on. Several flaws
emerge from this, the first being that not all desirable
panorama surfaces are on flat dry ground. The next is it is
hard to precisely point the camera in the correct direction.
The biggest problem here is the need to have a marker on the
ground - this is very clumsy, inaccurate, and simply not
possible in many locations.
A much better option, devised by our friends in the down
under, is to use a monopod with an foot anchor to prevent
the monopod from rotating while shooting your panorama.
Using an antiskid rubber plate, available for use with
walking canes to prevent them from sliding, you place your
monopod into the rubber boot and stand on the lip of the
plate to keep the entire thing from rotating. With this
proposal, you simply anchor the monopod onto the ground and
use a standard clickstop panhead as you would use with a
tripod, rotating the camera one clickstop at a time rather
than the monopod itself. While this technique seems to work
well, it does mean that you are limited to places where you
can anchor the unit, as well as requiring you to keep one
foot on the nonskid pad to prevent the monopod from
rotating.
While these are fine ways to use a monopod, especially
the above "foot anchor" method, we have a much better
solution: A compass/level based solution which gives
accurate image indexing, keeps the camera level, is compact,
works on all the ground surfaces you can use a monopod on,
and is just incredibly simple.
The History of the Monopod
and QTVR
(as told by OutsideTheLines)
Monopod first pass:
A step backward
Since we are not using a panhead, you need to rotate the
monopod itself and use the viewfinder to guess at 50%
overlap. This is pretty easy since 50% is a simple overlap
to be consistent with as long as you pay attention to the
images you are taking photos of. Herein lies the next
problem. While you are busy looking through the viewfinder
to compose the next image, it is very hard to look at a
bubble level to help prevent wobble between shots, hence the
guess work. This technique is possible, however, and you end
up with a slightly better version of the technique of
holding the camera to your eye with your arms tucked in
against your body as in the bipod approach. We clearly would
like a panhead of some kind to help with leveling and image
demarcation (indexing) for consistent image overlap. With
the amount of guess work involved in overlapping the images
with this technique, you will probably need to do an
interactive stitch to help the stitcher do its job.
- For a first pass example, we will show what you get
if you shoot a panorama with a bare bones monopod. This
monopod example was taken at Disneyland without the
benefit of any panhead, bubble level, or index marker.
This was strictly a monopod with a camera attached. A
substantial benefit this method has over the hand held
method is that the camera stays at one height and pivots
around a consistent center. The overlap was a guess at
50% and the level of the camera was total guess for each
shot. At the time this was shot, we did not have our
custom compass/level panhead unit. We did, however, come
up with plenty of panhead and leveling ideas while we
were shooting this series of panoramas, and our
compass/level panhead was one of them.
- 322KB panorama of Tomorrow Land at the
Happiest Place On Earth
-
Monopod second
pass: Two steps forward
While at Disneyland, we came up with plenty of possible
solutions to the problem of camera leveling and image
indexing. The one we finally adopted was to make use of the
Earthly environment we live in - use a combination of a
bubble level for camera leveling and a compass for image
indexing. Rather than using the degree markers on the
standard compass, we placed image demarcations for the
number of images needed given the lens we would use. Simply,
you place a bullseye circular level below the compass and
attach this unit to the side of the monopod. For each image,
make sure the bubble is centered in the level and the
compass needle points to an image index line and snap your
shot. You then rotate the monopod so that the compass needle
points to the next mark, level the bubble and snap the next
image. This gets you in and out quickly without hauling
around a bunch of equipment.
- This example will show what you can get if you use a
monopod with a compass/level panhead. This example was
taken at Chichen-Itza in the Mexican Yucatan, and was the
only way to shoot these images. First off, at many of
these Mayan archeological parks the caretakers do not
allow tripods (or severely frown upon them) due to the
very real possibility of banging into/against/on the
thousands year old ruins and causing permanent damage.
The second reason for not using a tripod in areas such as
these is the ease of transport. Carrying a large tripod
such as a standard Bogen 3005 is weighty, obtrusive, and
simply a pain to carry - especially if you have
experience using a monopod.
- 156 KB
panorama of the Ball Court and El Castillo at
Chichen-Itza
Monopod Compass/Level
Panhead - Parts Is Parts
A Monopod Based QTVR Solution...
...With The Help Of Earthly Mechanics
What it is and How it
Works:
The monopod we use is a Bogen #3006 with a cost of about
$40 USD new. We purchased a Bogen hex plate quickrelease
head for around $30 USD and we were in business. With this
setup, we can use all of our existing L-brackets due to our
prolific use of hex quick release plates.
Next, we made a simple pan/level indicator out of a
compass, a bullseye level, and a clamp which attaches to the
monopod giving us accurate imaging of the panorama. The
basic problem with a monopod for QTVR work is the inability
to keep it precisely level and get consistent image overlap
as you can with a tripod and appropriate panhead. To solve
this problem, we make use of gravity and the magnetic field
of the Earth. We have designed a panhead unit that attaches
to the side of the monopod's leg and gives you all the
important image rotation indexing and camera leveling
information at a glance. The compass gives you exacting
control over image overlap, similar to other QTVR panheads
without click stops, and with the level sitting below the
compass, you always know how level your shot is because you
can see both the image marker and the level of the camera
with one glance. The important factor to note is that no
ferrous metal (iron based) parts can be used in this
assembly as they can adversely affect the compass readings.
The optimal technique with this equipment is to set the
camera exposure such that you do nothing more to the camera
itself than click the shutter for every shot in the
panorama. Once the camera is set, you look down onto the
compass pan head, line up the first shot due north (since it
is marked on the compass itself), level the rig by looking
through the compass onto the bubble level, and take the
first shot. While continuing to look onto the panhead, you
rotate the monopod in place such that the compass needle
points to the next mark, you level the unit again and take
the next shot. You then continue this procedure until you
have completed your panorama, producing results as good or
better than those you can get with a tripod.
There has been some confusion over the location of the
nodal point with a setup such as the one described here. The
nodal point of the system is at the center of rotation,
which is the center of the monopod itself - the foot of the
monopod rotates about the nodal point. The nodal point is
not at the center of the compass as some have thought. While
there is some error induced in having the compass rotate
"off center" of the monopod, this would really only be a
problem if the compass rotated off center by several hundred
miles, not a few inches.
We started with the
following parts:
- A Lightform EC-1 photographic light stand accessory
clamp reduced to the clamp assembly only. This clamp
should be made of plastic or aluminum since any ferrous
metal will affect the compass readings, though plastic is
preferred as it can be easily drilled. This clamp is the
carrier for the rest of the panhead gear.
- A strip of 1/8" x 1 1/2" anodized aluminum flat bar
approximately 6" long.
- An acrylic bullseye circular level used to level the
monopod and camera.
- A wide rimed travel compass. The compass must be
large in diameter to help prevent needle bounce and
should be of good quality so that the needle will move
freely. It is best for the body of the compass to be made
of clear plastic with a wide outer rim on which the
custom image index degree marker will sit. With a compass
made of clear plastic, it is possible to glue the bubble
level underneath so that both indicators are visible at
the same time, allowing you to accurately position both
the compass needle and bubble level with ease. The wide,
easy to read, degree marker on the outer rim of the
compass will be replaced with a custom demarcation plate
for the number of images needed for appropriate image
overlap.
First cut the aluminum bar to fit on the accessory clamp
as a holding plate, making sure the unit can still be
attached to the monopod. Aluminum is a very soft metal and
very easy to work with, so do not worry about any having too
much trouble doing this. The tools required for this
procedure are a vise of some kind to hold the plate when you
cut and drill it, a hacksaw to cut the plate, and a drill to
make the mounting holes. The end of the aluminum plate
should stick out about 4" from the side of the monopod so
that you can read the indicators which will sit at this end.
Once the plate is cut to shape, holes must be drilled in
both the plate and clamp and the two attached together with
small bolts.
Now that you have a plate on which to place the compass
and level, it is time to adjust the levelness of the plate
relative to the monopod itself. For this you will need two
bubble levels to make sure that the plate and the head of
the monopod are level with respect to each other. The first
level will sit atop the monopod on the quickrelease head and
is used as the reference level to calibrate the aluminum
plate. The second level will sit on the end of the aluminum
plate where the compass/level assembly will sit. With the
clamp attached to the monopod, slightly tweak the aluminum
plate until it is level with regard to the top of the
monopod head. Aluminum is soft enough that making these
adjustments should pose no problem.
Next, glue the compass on top of the bullseye level and
glue that assembly to the end of the aluminum plate and you
have a completed compass/level panhead for your monopod. You
should clamp the panhead unit to the monopod so that you
look down on the indicators while taking your panorama to
prevent parallax errors in your readings. Lastly, cut out a
ring of paper with image index marks on it for your custom
degree marker, and you are ready to shoot your panoramas.
You can always start your panoramas facing north since you
have a compass to tell you where it is.
Build the complete package
yourself:
- A Bogen monopod (#3006) - $40 USD (new)
- A Bogen hex-quickmount head - $30 USD (new)
- L-bracket from normal tripod setup with quick release
mount
- Lightform EC-1 accessory clamp for approximately -
$30 USD (new) (a more accurate price is forthcoming)
- Wide rimed travel compass - $9 USD (new)
- Acrylic bullseye circular level - $3 USD (new)
- A short length of aluminum flat bar (1/8 inch thick,
1.5 inches wide, 6 inches long)
- A few bolts and glue to hold it all together
- An image degree marker to replace the compass degree
marker.
Have OutsideTheLines build the
compass/level panhead for you:
- Purchase requests (or if you simply have questions)
may be sent to:
- CompassPanHead@OutsideTheLines.com
The cost of the compass panhead unit is roughly $150 USD
plus shipping charges. This breaks down to about $50 USD in
parts and $100 USD for 3 or 4 hours of labor to gather,
make, and assemble these pieces into a usable panhead. These
prices may vary if the time to make a unit is shorter/longer
than expected, or the price of the parts differs from those
stated above. The addition of a Bogen monopod and
hex-quickrelease head will add roughly $70 USD to the total
cost of the unit. The L-bracket will need to be provided by
the user.
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